Flying into Leh, the cold desert land, over the magnificent Himalayas is a beautiful and scary experience at once. Leh Palace illuminated by huge halogen lamps looks like a bewitching castle on a hilltop set ablaze in the dark nights of the Leh. Drive in the city is as exciting as the wonders it has in its lap with the long isolated winding road that opens up into a sheer expanse of arid flatness in burnt sienna. There is blinding sun at the top and perhaps at the first impression, a visitor is not likely to appreciate the blessings of the land fully.

Bon and Buddhism rule the lifestyle and culture of the people here. The Chortens (Stupas) and enchanting Gompas (Monasteries) adorn the city with their presence. The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful and there is an ominous beauty in the stark surroundings of Ladakh. The Hinayana Buddhist way of life lends a benevolent spirit to the very air of the region.

Location: In Ladakh that covers western J&K, India.
Significance: Capital of Ladakh
STD Code 01982
Best Season June-November

Climate
The days are dry and warm with cool winds blowing. The highest temperature is 25°C in summers and 10°C in winters while the nights are cool with temperatures ranging between 14°C and 8°C. There is heavy rainfall in winters. Recently, there has been increasing incidents of sporadic rainfall throughout the year.

How to Reach

By Air: Leh is connected by the regular domestic flights to and from Delhi. However, as the weather is unpredictable, a 2 to 3 hrs hold-up is normal, especially on the early morning departures.
By Train: The nearest railway station is in Kalka from where has to take a bus or taxi to Manali via Shimla. There are regular Tata Sumo and bus services in Manali to and from Leh.
By Road: Long, winding but well maintained roads are the next best option to a flight for Leh. The two popular routes to Leh are from Srinagar via Kargil on the Srinagar-Leh Highway and from Manali via Sarchu and Dharchu on the Manali-Leh Highway. These routes are only open from June to October.

However, it is a long and tiring journey of two days, the only comforts being the spectacular sights of the mountain country, alluring blue rivers and the passes over 13,000 ft that takes us to our destination. The respective night halts on the two routes are Kargil and Sarchu. There are regular bus and Tata Sumo services to Leh. Leh Bus Stand is barely a kilometer from the city itself.

What to wear
In summers, light cotton clothes are advisable while you will need heavy woolen clothes in winters. Wind-sheeters or raincoats as a safety against rainfall or snowfall and good waterproof shoes are needed while trekking. A warm sleeping bag will be an added advantage.

Shopping Attractions:
Kashmiris displaying their beautiful carpets and rugs adorned with a mixture of Kashmiri and Persian motifs dominate the shopping areas. There are a number of German bakeries in Leh to cater to European tastes. Special Tibetan refugee markets are the other dominant shopping centers in Leh. The turquoise from Tibet, the rubies from Burma and the Lapis Lazuli from Afghanistan along with the native Thangka paintings make up a shopping buff's day. T-shirts with 'Free Tibet' printed in them and painted masks and jewellery made from semi-precious stones or fake stones are other attractions.

Metalware is the Tibetan specialty as is the quartz that comes all the way from South India, which seems a little strange. Silverware, cymbals with special religious motifs that are used during meditation, decorative copper and brass trumpets, sonorous bowls made of nine metals like cymbals, chunky shell bangles worn by Ladakhi women and exquisite unpolished turquoise and silver jewelry are some of the highlights of the place.
 

Set on a small hill, Leh Palace towers above the town. It once the thriving royal residence of the ruling Namgyals and is said to have served as the model for the Potala, its more illustrious cousin in Lhasa and one-time residence of the Dalai Lama. A millennium-old, seven-storeyed structure in mud and stone, it is mesmerizing to wander through the crumbling remnants of royalty and watch the brilliant Thangkas on its soot-stained walls.
 

Located in a tiny village on the outskirts of Leh, this palace has been the Ladakhi royal family's residence for the last 150 years since the Dogra armies invaded the Leh Palace. One may have a chance encounter with the royals here too. It houses a museum, which is said to have the best collection of exquisite Thangka paintings in the whole of Ladakh. The other things housed here are crown jewels, dresses, coins, peraks encrusted with turquoise and lapis lazuli as well as religious objects.
 

Gompas or traditional Buddhist monasteries and chortens or the smaller, whitewashed stupas form the ever-present features of the stark expanse of Ladakh. The two popular Gompa routes are: -

• The Leh-Manali Highway covering Shey, Thiksey and Hemis, and
• The Srinagar-Leh Highway covering Spituk, Basgo and Alchi. One may also cover Ridzong and Lamayuru on this route.

The captivating Leh Palace rises from the edge of a hill overlooking the town and at once looks like a reminiscent of Lhasa's Potala Palace. Though deserted, it has some definite mystical quality about it. The Palace was built in the middle of the 16th century by King Singe Namgyal and still belongs to the royal family that now lives in the Stok Palace. The nine-storeyed monument is now in ruins. The palace remains locked and may be opened at request by a monk.

The Palace has a museum with some tangkhas (painted or embroidered scrolls) and paintings on its display. The view from the monastery above the Leh Palace is quite impressive. It is known as Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (monastery). The red monastery has some frescos, Buddhist scriptures, idols and a massive statue of the Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha).

The striking Shanti Stupa is a recent structure. A Japanese who harbored the ambition of spreading Buddhism across the world, had it constructed in 1985 with aid from the Japanese Government. A motorable road and a steep flight of stairs connect the Stupa to the town, where one can relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the chain of mountains and the peaceful little village of Changspa with typical Ladakhi houses. The stream flowing near the village and the towering Namgyal Tsemo in the distance, are also visible from here.
 

Monasteries in Ladakh may belong to either the Mahayana or the Hinayana sect of Buddhism but they play an important role in lending the region its unique flavor. Commonly known as Gompas in the region, besides being beautiful, these monasteries can often be seen perched dangerously on the edge of craggy mountain faces or lone rocks. The head lama is called a 'kushak', which means a Reincarnation.
 

52 km from Leh, it was founded in the 11th century by a sect known as Klu-Kkhjil (water spirits) and was rededicated to another monastic order (the yellow sect) in the 15th century. The original Gompa was destroyed in a fire and the present-day Gompa was rebuilt in the 18th century. It is home to huge clay images of Lord Buddha, several old manuscripts, a rich collection of Thankas, old religious and domestic costumes, implements and other such things. It is said to flourish in the 15th century under lhawang Lodos Sangphu. Today, the monastery also belongs to Gaylukpa School. An annual festival is held from the 17th to 19th of the twelfth month, known as Likir festival.
 

18 km from Leh, Spituk Gompa is on the hilltop near River Indus. Od-De founded the Gompa in 11th century and was called Spituk (exemplary) by Rinchen Zangpo, a translator that visited the place. Initially it belonged to the Kadampa School but during the reign of King Gragspa Bumide, he transferred it to Gayluk Pa order. The monastery has a rich collection of ancient masks, antique arms, icons and numerous Thankas. An annual festival, known as the Spituk festival, is held here from 17th to 19th days of the eleventh month. There is another shrine, higher up the hill, known as the Mahakal Temple, dedicated to the deity of Vajrabhairava. It has a frightening face, which is unveiled only during the annual festival in January.
 

It is the largest monastery in Ladakh, Hemis belongs to the red sect, Brokpa. Built in 1630, 45 km south from Leh, it is not only impressive and intriguing but also different from the other important monasteries of Ladakh. An annual festival is held for two days in June-July in the courtyard of the monastery to commemorate the birth anniversary of Guru Padmasambhava. The festival features dances and a colorful pageant where good triumphs over evil along with an annual 'bazaar' where Ladakhis from remote areas come to buy and sell wares.
 

The Cave Monastery of Shergole is old and small but has elegant frescoes. A peculiar Buddhist monastery of the region, it juts out of a brown, granite cliff and is frighteningly suspended in the middle of the mountain. The architectural oddity of the monastery along with its thrilling views arouses the curiosity of not only the tourists but also the locals and it is a perfect thing that one would want to take a photograph of, as a memento to keep forever.
 

125 km west of Leh, Lamayuru monastery was founded in the 10th century. According to a popular folktale, Lamayuru was once a lake. A Lama once blessed the place so that it caused the waters of the lake to recede up to the mountains and left the place for the monastery to be built. This monastery is in utter ruins and only its main hall stands to this day housing numerous Tankhyas. The Yundrung Kabgyad festival is held here annually during summer on the 28th and 29th days of the second Tibetan month. Lamayuru has some fascinating caves carved out of the mountainside and is set on a high cape overlooking the village and valley. The monastery is also known as Yung Drung (meaning 'Swastika') and is worth seeing, if only for its beauty that surmounts that of any other gompa of the region.
 

Situated on the shores of the River Indus, Alchi Gompa is more than thousand years old. One of the walls of the monastery features thousands of miniature paintings of the Buddha along with three large sized images that are made of clay and have been painted brightly to be the highlights of the place. However, this place does not serve as active religious center anymore and monks only look after it from the Likir.
 

This lake is situated at an elevation of 14,000ft. In the Eastern sector of Ladakh, at a distance of 154km.from Leh across Changla pass (17,000ft.).This lake is one of the largest and most beautiful natural brakish lakes in the country and even Asia too.
 

T so moriri or mountain Lake is situated in the middle of the elevated valley of Rupshu surrounded by 6000 m peaks which completely surrounds the lake. The Area is rich in wildlife including the "Kyang" (wild ass), red fox and the rare snow leopard too.
 

T sokar Lake is approximately 45 kms northwest of the Tsomoriri Lake at a height of 4485 m. It is also called "White Lake" because of salt deposited around it. The water of T so kar is so salty that salt is procured from its banks and sold all over Kashmir.
 

Ladakh Valley

Ladakh is bounded by two of the world's mightiest mountain ranges, the Great Himalaya and the Karakoram and lies transversely to the Ladakh range and the Zanskar range. In geological terms, it is a young land, formed only a few million years ago by the buckling and folding of the earth's crust as the Indian sub-continent pushed with irresistible force against the immovable mass of Asia. Today, a high-altitude desert, Ladakh was once covered by an extensive lake system. The remnants of such a lake system still exists in the southeast plateaus of Rupshu and Chushul where there are drainage basins such as Tso-moriri, Tsokar, and grandest of all, Pangong-tso. Despite the rainfall by some stray monsoon clouds that cross over to the area, the main source of water remains the winter snowfall.

Drass, Zanskar and the Suru Valley to the north of Himalayas receive heavy snow in winter feeding the glaciers that melt in summers to form the streams used for irrigating the fields. For the rest of the region, the snow on the peaks is virtually the only source of water. Ladakh lies at altitudes ranging from about 9,000 feet at Kargil to 25,170 feet at Saser Kangri in the Karakoram. Its frozen landscape is miraculous while its clear skies with glaring sun are welcome. Shooting stars are visible quite often in the area while silence and tranquility reign the area. There are wizened faces and rosy cheeks, and the dragons and Zen adorn every other human inhabitation, making Ladakh a quite place to visit. Also known as 'The Last Shangrila', 'Moonscape' and 'Little Tibet', the land is full of surprises.
 

An enchanting valley formed by the Drass River that has its origin in the Machoi glacier near the famous Zozila Pass. River Shigar flowing in from the north drains a bordering part of the Drass Valley. In summers, due to the melting of snow, the volume of the river rises considerably. It meets the Suru River near Kharul, a short distance away from Kargil. The area is rocky with an occasional green patch formed by willow and groves. The short summer season in the Drass Valley begins in May, when the snows begin to melt. Inhabited by Brokpas who probably migrated to this tract from Gilgit several centuries ago, the chief occupation of the natives is growing mainly barley and other coarse cereals, as there is a lack of irrigation facilities in many parts of Drass. The soil is poor and unproductive and the agricultural production is also poor. As a result, food grains have to be imported from the Kashmir Valley while the scarcity of fuel causes it to be brought in from across the Zozila Pass.
 

The average height of the Suru valley is 3,000 m. In the winters starting from mid-November and usually continuing till May, almost all parts of the valley is covered with a thick layer of snow. Formed by the catchments of the Suru River, that rises from the Panzella glacier and joins the Indus River at Nurla and the Dras River at Kharul, the general topography of the valley is as rugged and mountainous as most of Ladakh. However, it is relatively more fertile and extends from the Panzella glacier to south of Kargil town, where the Suru River merges with the Botkul River rising from the Botkul glacier.

Agriculture is the chief occupation of the valley people, which are blessed with a relatively longer summer, which begins in May. The main crops of the region are wheat, barley and millets along with the vegetables such as turnip, radish, peas and black peas. Grapes, apricots and melons are produced in fairly large quantities at Darchik and Garkoon along the lower course of the Indus through Ladakh that find a ready market in Kargil. Liquor is made from grapes.
 

Yellow and pink wild roses cover Nubra during early summers till August when a carpet of wild lavender enwraps it. A relatively warmer valley in Ladakh, it yields better crops and fruits, thus, earning the nickname of the Ldumra or the orchard of Ladakh. Diskit, one of the larger villages in the region, is dotted with apricot plantations and is renowned for housing the 350 year-old Diskit Gompa, which is the oldest and the largest monastery in the Nubra Valley. The road between Diskit and the pretty little Hunder Village winds through a gorgeous stretch of sand dunes. In Hunder, one can see the double-humped camels as one goes to visit the Hunder Gompa having some old frescos and a statue of Buddha. This monastery is also the best place in the village to catch a view of the setting sun.
 

One of the widest open areas in Rupshu, it has a length of about 20 km and a maximum width of about 7 km. The average height of the region is 5,000 m and can be approached from Leh across the Tanglang La pass. The main settlement of the valley is Thuggi while the two lakes here are - the fresh water Panluk Lake and the salt-water Tsokar Lake, which is 5 times the area of the former one. Named so because of the deposits of impure salt that occurs on the northern shore of the Tsokar Lake, Changpas collect it and use it to barter goods from other parts of Ladakh.
 

The valley of the Shyok River or the river of death, it was called so by the Central Asian traders who ventured on this treacherous route for centuries and perished. Rising from the Khumdang glacier, Nubra and Changchenmo rivers fill the waters of Shylok River. The river freezes in winters forming an easy access between the Khaplu and the Nubra valleys while in summers, as the snow melts in the uplands, the river overflows its banks and create a vast marsh. During this period, the Shyok River has to be crossed on rafts of inflated skin.
 

Drass is a small township lying in the center of the valley of the same name at an altitude of 3230 m. Known as the second coldest inhabited place in the world, it experiences repeated snowfalls during winters and the temperature drops to as low as minus 40 degrees and even more. The valley starts from the base of the Zojila pass, which is said to be the Himalayan gateway to Ladakh. For centuries, its inhabitants have tread upon this formidable pass even during the late autumn or early spring, the riskiest season as the whole sector is then covered by snow and is subject to frequent snow storms. The masters of such mortal dangers, they have been known to help stranded travelers to traverse the land and established a monopoly over the carrying trade in the days of the Pan-Asian trade.

A convenient base for a 3-day long trek to Suru valley, Drass is across the sub-range separating the two valleys, which passes through some of the most beautiful upland villages and flowery meadows on both sides of the 4500 m high Umbala pass, which is on the way. The trek to the holy cave of Amarnath in neighboring Kashmir, which starts from Minamarg below Zojila, takes 3 days and involves crossing of 5200 m high pass. There are so many other treks that Drass have to offer including many shorter treks and hikes to the upland village.
 

Kargil was once the trade and transit center of the Pan-Asian trade network and has also been the gateway for caravans of silk, brocade, carpets, felts, tea, poppy and ivory to China, Tibet, Yarkand and Kashmir. It is situated at an altitude of 2,704 m above sea level. Famous for apricots, Kargil is the second largest urban center of Ladakh. A haven for adventure lovers and a base for the trekking tours, one may opt for a whole range of activities including trekking, mountaineering, camping and river rafting. An entry point to the wonderland of Zanskar Valley, Kargil is the perfect night stop for the tourists traveling between Srinagar and Leh. It also hosts the popular annual archery contest in May every year and a lazy stroll along the riverbank and up the hillside is rejuvenating.

Dry apricots and apricot jam of the region are delicious and Pashmina shawls, local carpets and woolen handicrafts are some good options to buy from here. The woolens available here are of fine quality that owes itself to the long fleeced mountain goats in the area. The Buddhist monastery of Mulbek Gompa, 45 km from Kargil, boasts of fabulous frescoes and splendid statues. The blooming white apricots in May that turn to fiery orange in August are a visual treat. Trespone and Sankhoo are two imambaras in Kargil that attract tourists with their Turkish style of architecture and are home to the Muslim 'Aghas'. The other place of worship for Muslims is Jama Masjid.
 

The hidden kingdom of the hill resort of Zanskar is famous for its snow-white high hills and gorgeous Gompas or monasteries. The lovely and spectacular landscapes and the Buddhist culture heavily influencing the lifestyle of the inhabitants of the Zanskar Valley instantly mesmerize one. The word 'Zanskar' literally means the Copper Star and it is so named because the various rivers flowing into Zanskar carry copper sediments. Situated across the Suru Valley and over the Pensi La in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir, Zanskar is situated 235 km from Kargil. The high altitudes of the Zanskar valley make it inaccessible in winters due to the extremely harsh weather conditions and the water of the River Zanskar freezes to become the Chador road. However, one can visit the area in the summers.

One of the isolated and scantily inhabited Himalayan Valleys, Zanskar not only boasts of snow-covered peaks and two small alpine lakes but also the most breathtaking views of the Drang-Drung glacier. Panikhar situated at the border of the Suru Valley is a must-see, where the fort of Zorawar Singh is a major tourist attraction. The Penzella Pass divides the Zanskar valley from the Suru Valley and is an excellent camping site as it is a vintage point offering excellent views of the majestic mountains and the captivating countryside. Karsha is a typical human settlement with just the basic facilities and the Gelugpa monastery, which is a telltale of the importance of the religion in the lives of the inhabitants of Zanskar. The mural art displayed at Labrang is not to be missed too. Though the mountains seem isolated but there are several places associated with the Tibetan Buddhists here that are worth exploring. It is a place for the adventure enthusiasts who can opt for river rafting from Serchu to Nyimu via Padam or trek along to Panikhar or Rangdum over the Pentse La, into the Zanskar Valley from Lamayuru, Leh or Darcha, from Padum to the Markha valley and so many others. However, the climatic conditions must be kept in mind while choosing the trek.
 

35 km from Zanskar, along the long rough road from Padum, a titular king ruled the Zangla Valley till his death until a few years back. The old castle is now in utter ruins and the only surviving edifice is a small chapel that occupies a hill and sits overlooking the deserted valley below. There is an old Nunnery near it, which is worth a visit, if only for the austere life style of the small monastic community of nuns that live here. One may also see the old monastery situated in the nearby village of Tsazar that has exquisite frescos. This village lies mid-way between Stongdey and Zangla. Today, Zangla is the nodal point on the popular trip covering Padum, Strongdey, Zangla, Karsha and back again to Padum covering almost all the cultural sites of Zanskar.

One can still see the old rope suspension bridge spanning the tumultuous Zanskar near Zangla, which is the testimony of a rare feat of folk engineering. However, it is no longer in use now. Today. People use a temporary footbridge to cross the river and approach the left bank along which the trail to Karsha follows. Zangla is also the starting point of various trekking expeditions for the Padum - Markha valley. In June, the summer is at its height in the region and the climate is ideal for trekking along the route but in winters, a frigid dormancy envelops the area.
 

The cast cold desert of Ladakh, with its high altitudes and sparse population, is considered the state's most difficult trekking region. With the lowest altitude around 11,000 feet, there can be breathing problems to some and acclimatization prior to the trek is essential. Ladakh has been variously described as 'moonland' and 'frozen desert'. At Leh and Kargil in Ladakh, the trek bases, one may hire porters and ponies. The trekking season extends from July to September. At an altitude of more than 9000 ft, Ladakh offers adventure amidst beauty, which surpasses any other mountain range. Tucked between two of the world's greatest mountain ranges, the Himalayas and the Karakoram, its snow-clad peaks, translucent lakes, barren terrain and mystic culture has attracted tourists and explorers from all over the world.
 

However, it is the white water rafting on the two mountain streams of River Indus and River Lidder that is the favorite of the adventure enthusiasts. Rafting is a very recent sport in Kashmir. The Indus in Ladakh, in particular, has three portions that are ideal for this sport - a half day run for amateurs from Phey to Niemo, a two day exciting run from Phey to Alchi on the first day and Nurla on the second day with a choice of going further to Khalsi. The Zanskar River, also in Ladakh, can offer professionals six days on rapids that begin at Padum and passes through the picturesque Zanskar valley. The best season is August to September. Similarly, the River Lidder near Pahalgam has two short stretches suitable for white water rafting, especially for day trips. As the gradients are not steep, they are excellent for the first timers.

White water canoeing also has has extensive possibilities in the rivers of Lidder, Sindh, Drass, Suru, Indus, Zanskar, Chenab and for the less adventurous, even the Jhelum. The high altitude lakes of Tarsar, Marsar, Kaunsarnag, Kishensar, Vishensar and Gangabal could also be interesting for canoeing, thought the sport has not yet caught on here. Similarly, no one has yet tried diving in the lakes of the valley and it will be certainly a fun to discover the truth of the legendary city, which is believed to lie at the bottom of Wular Lake and the popular belief that Manasbal Lake has no bottom.
 

The Zanskar Range surrounds the famous massif of NunKun. Bruce, Sillem, the Bullock-Workmans, Piacenza, Harrison and Waller have explored this group of mountains since 1898. Kun at an altitude of 7,077 m above sea level was first climbed by the Italian climber Piacenza in 1913 and Nun at an altitude of 7,135 m above sea level by the Swiss climber, late Madame Claude Kogan, in 1953. It is the only climbing group, which is accessible by a day's trekking from the road head. The other significant peaks in this range are the White Needle at an altitude of 6,500 m above sea level; Pinnacle at an altitude of 6,930 m above sea level; Z-1 at an altitude of 6,400 m above sea level; Z-2 at an altitude of 6,175 m above sea level; Z-3 at an altitude of 6,270 m above sea level; Z-8 at an altitude of 6,050 m above sea level; D-41 at an altitude of 5,813 m above sea level; N-8 at an altitude of 6,392 m above sea level; Bien Guapa at an altitude of 6,006 m above sea level; Bobang at an altitude of 5,971 m above sea level; In addition, there are a number of unnamed peaks in this range overlooking the Durung Drung glacier.

The Ladakh range chiefly consists of the peaks of Stok area - Stok Kangri at an altitude of 6,135 m above sea level; Parcha Kangri at an altitude of 6,065 m above sea level; Gulap Kangri at an altitude of 5,900 m above sea level and some peaks of Nimaling area such as the famous Kang Yissay at an altitude of 6,400 m above sea level. Recently, the Karakorams have also been thrown open to selected joint expeditions. Three such expeditions that are allowed every year to three groups are Saser Group, Rimo Group and Momostong Group in Nubra Valley. Some of these peaks even overlook the Siachin glacier, which is among the longest in the world.

The climbing period extends from mid May till mid October. The monsoons do not affect the Ladakh peaks and the main climbing season is July to August when most of the Himalayas remain closed. The Army and the Air Force are authorized to assist climbers and trekkers in distress. Most of the climbing regions are linked by high-frequency radio to Srinagar - the base of rescue operations.

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