Cuisines of Kashmir
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Wazwan
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One can
frequently taste the delicacies mastered by the chefs at
Kashmiri weddings. Kashmiri cuisine that evolved in the
Valley several centuries ago has retained a distinct
personality of its own. There were two great schools of
culinary craftsmanship in
Kashmir, namely those of Kashmiri Pandits and
Kashmiri Muslims. The basic difference between the two
schools was the abundant use of heeng (asafoetida) and curd
among the Hindus and the open-handed use of onions and
garlic’s among the Muslims.
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Wazwan in Itaewon
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Kashmiri Muslims offer a gold mine of gourmet, this
art is near extinction. Largely confined to Kashmiri homes
in and out of the Valley, the professional cooks and masters
of the art are known as 'wazas'. These people claim to be
the descendants of the master chefs who migrated from
Samarkand and parts of Central Asia at the beginning of the
fifteenth century and were a vital part of the entourage
that came to Kashmir during the reign of Timur (or Tamarlane).
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Wazwan preparation, Kashmir
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In the earlier days, the traditional Kashmiri Muslim banquet
known as Wazwan, a feast fit for kings, which was perhaps
the most unique and elaborate royal spread of meat and
delicacies compared to the other parts of India. Comprising
of thirty-six courses, fifteen to thirty dishes of Wazwan
are varieties of meat. Many of the delicacies are cooked
through the entire night under the expert supervision of a
Vasta Waza or head chef, assisted by an entourage of wazas
under him. Kashmir's most formal meal, Wazwan is not only a
ritual but also a ceremony. Traditionally, no spoons, forks
or knives are used for eating food. Eaten with fingers,
getting invited to a Wazwan is a rare luxury that one can
enjoy these days.
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Hindu
Brahmins or Kashmiri Pandits are not averse to eating meat and are
rather voracious meat eaters. However, they prefer goat and that too
a young one. The meat is generally chosen from the legs, neck,
breast, ribs and shoulders and cut into large pieces. No vegetarian
or non-vegetarian dish, except certain kababs, is cooked without
curd. The Kashmiris often cook their food by heating it on two
sides, from both top and bottom for that distinctive taste. The
charcoal fire was their solution in the earlier days but oven serves
as a good substitute these days. |
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Originally, Kashmiri Pandits avoided onions and garlics but now many
of them have acquired a taste for them and include them in certain
recipes as optional. Though the basic principles of cooking are
largely similar in almost all homes, certain Pandit families have
adopted minor changes in both ingredients and methods. The most
important of the retained traits are the liberal use of aromatic
spices and the avoidance of onion and garlic in some homes. Kabargah,
Kofta, Dum Alu, Methi Chaman and Firni are some of the delicacies of
the region known for their sheer flavor and richness. |
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