Syncretic Sufi Islam: Visiting Khawja Moinuddin Chishti’s
Dargah at Ajmer
Sufi traditions powerful expression of people's Islam in our
subcontinent
This dargah, representing years of Sufi traditions, which is
open to everyone regardless of caste, creed, faith, age, or
gender, twenty-four hours a day, not only posed a powerful challenge
to the Hindu orthodoxy of the time, but also to the Muslim orthodoxy
represented by the ulema (orthodox Islamic clerics). While the
dominant Hindu practices emphasized caste hierarchies and exclusion,
the dargah of the saint was the refuge of the most lowly, humble,
and oppressed people of the land. While the Muslim priestocracy
preached the supremacy of Islam, the religion of the conquerors,
the Chistis demonstrated their love and acceptance of people
of all faiths.
The Chistis, unlike many other Sufi traditions or orders, always
kept a healthy distance from the power politics of the court.
They practiced extreme poverty and simplicity. Their fondness
for music soon endeared them to the masses. Like the shrine
of any Hindu saint, the dargah of the Sufis became a centre
not only of the worship of the pir or guru, but also a place
of healing, refuge, and wish fulfilment. No wonder, people of
all faiths, Hindus and Muslims alike, flock to these shrines
even today.....
Once inside, we seemed to have entered a medieval world. Men,
women, and children in all kinds of attire hurried about here
and there. There was a long line of people trying to get inside
the shrine to pay their respects at the saint's tomb. We too
were ushered into the rather full, even sticky chamber....
Sufi traditions of peace and coexistence are indeed very powerful
as an expression of people's Islam in our subcontinent, but
unfortunately the ruling clergy has never given them either
recognition or validity.
It was interesting that Pakistani president Pervez Musharraf
and his Begum were unable to visit this dargah of Garib Nawaz
during their first visit to India . ''How could they,'' someone
said, ''the Khwaja did not call him because he did not come
with peace in his heart.''